HISTORY has greatly altered the face of Mandalay—and in this anniversary year, 150 years after its founding, Burma’s second city is again undergoing radical change.
Ruled for many early years by Britain, Mandalay is now falling under the influence of a new wave of outsiders—the Chinese.
The city has had a Chinese community since the days when it was ruled by King Mindon (1853-78). Migration from China really began, however, with the arrival of remnants of the Kuomintang army fleeing advancing Communist forces at the end of China’s civil war in 1949.
An intersection in downtown Mandalay.
The presence of a growing Chinese community in Mandalay attracted a new influx of migrants from Yunnan Province, who are now deeply involved in large sectors of the local economy. Chinese-owned hotels, guesthouses, restaurants and small businesses are springing up, while Chinese festivals are now firmly embedded in the city’s cultural calendar.
Despite the influx, it isn’t known just how many Chinese immigrants figure in Mandalay’s population of around 1 million.
Mandalay was founded in 1859 by King Mindon, who moved his capital there from Amarapura. It was known in those days as Yadanabon Naypyidaw, meaning “Royal City of Jewels.”
Mindon built the city some 13 km from the Irrawaddy River, hoping to secure it from invasion. European ships had penetrated Burma as far as Amarapura, and two of his predecessors had been defeated by British invaders in 1824 and 1852. Fear of losing his own throne prompted the king to move to a site out of range of hostile cannon fire.
Another, less practical reason is given for Mindon’s decision to move his capital to the area of present-day Mandalay. He is said to have been influenced by a taboung, or prophecy, relating in verse form a legend that the Buddha once visited Mandalay Hill with his cousin and disciple Ananda and predicted that a future king would establish his capital there.
Mindon died in 1878 and was succeeded by his son Thibaw, who was destined to become Burma’s last monarch. The British overthrew Thibaw in the Third Anglo-Burmese War in 1885, and he died in exile.
The British colonists established their capital in Rangoon. Mandalay remained the country’s center of culture and Buddhist learning, and its place in history as Burma’s last royal capital made the city a primary symbol of Burmese sovereignty and identity.
War again engulfed Mandalay when Japan invaded the country in 1941, engaging British forces in bitter fighting throughout Burma. Allied bombing inflicted heavy damage on Mandalay—even the palace became a target after the Japanese commandeered the beautiful building as a supplies storehouse.
The allied victory over Japan brought independence for Burma in its wake, but any hopes that Mandalay could reclaim its former role were never fulfilled, and Rangoon remained Burma’s capital until the recent move to Naypyidaw.
The face of Mandalay was again changed in dramatic fashion when fire swept through a downtown area in 1984, destroying about 3,000 buildings. The fire not only razed an entire district, but opened the area up to Chinese investors and developers, who bought much of the ruined property from Burmese citizens unable to afford the cost of reconstruction.
“Nowadays, you can see Chinese buildings everywhere in downtown Mandalay,” said local journalist Kyaw Yin Myint.
The Chinese cultural impact on Mandalay life has kept pace with the growth of Chinese business, with Chinese temples nestling up to Chinese-financed shopping centers.
Chinese customs even prevail in the increasing number of marriages between Burmese women and Chinese residents—a development that’s viewed unfavorably by many locals.
Kyaw Yin Myint foresees the day when Mandalay life will be dominated by its Chinese and Chinese-Burmese citizens. And that day probably isn’t another 150 years away.